13.15: Chapter References (2024)

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    Bascom, Willard. 1964. Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface. Garden City: Anchor Press. https://archive.org/details/wavesbeaches00doub

    ———. 1980. Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface. Revised, updated, and enlarged. Garden City: Anchor Press. https://archive.org/details/wavesbeachesdyna0000basc

    Bascom, Willard, and Kim McCoy. 2021. Waves and Beaches: The Powerful Dynamics of Sea and Coast. Ventura: Patagonia. https://www.patagonia.com/product/waves-and-beaches-the-powerful-dynamics-of-sea-and-coast-book/BK855.html

    Bierly, Greg. 2005. “Extratropical Cyclones.” In Encyclopedia of World Climatology. Edited by J. E. Oliver. Dordrecht: Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/1-4020-3266-8_80

    Brander, Rob. 2010. Dr. Rip’s Essential Beach Book: Everything You Need to Know About Surf, Sand, and Rips. Sydney: University of New South Wales Press. https://www.scienceofthesurf.com/books

    Brown, Bruce. 1966. The Endless Summer. Cinema V. Film. 95 minutes. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060371/

    Butt, Tony. 2014. Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press. https://uhpress.hawaii.edu/title/surf-science-an-introduction-to-waves-for-surfing/

    ———. 2021. “Hurricane Larry: How to Track Swells and Calculate Storm Distance.” Magicseaweed. September 7, 2021. https://magicseaweed.com/news/hint-you-can-use-our-swell-charts-to-tell-how-far-away-a-storm-is/11738/

    Center for Western Weather and Water Extremes (CW3E). 2021. “CW3E Event Summary: 19-26 October 2021.” October 23, 2021. CW3E. https://cw3e.ucsd.edu/cw3e-event-summary-19-26-october-2021/

    Dally, William R. 2001. “The Maximum Speed of Surfers.” Journal of Coastal Research 29: 33–40. https://www.jstor.org/stable/25736203

    do Carmo, José Simão Antunes. 2022. “Dominant Processes that Amplify the Swell Towards the Coast: The Nazaré Canyon and the Giant Waves.” Research, Society, and Development 11(11): e578111133804. https://doi.org/10.33448/rsd-v11i11.33804

    Google Earth. 2023. “Huntington Beach Pier.” Google Earth, version 9.181.0.1. Accessed January 31, 2023. https://earth.google.com/web/search/Huntington+Beach+Pier,+Huntington+Beach,+CA

    Jones, Ian S. F., Y. Volkov, Y. Toba, S. Larsen, and N. E. Huang. 2001. “Overview.” In Wind Stress Over the Ocean. Edited by Ian S. F. Jones and Yoshiaki Toba, 1-34. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511552076.002

    Knauss, John A., and Newell Garfield. 2017. Introduction to Physical Oceanography. Long Grove: Wavelend Press. https://www.waveland.com/browse.php?t=504

    Michell, J. H. 1893. “XLIV. The Highest Waves in Water.” The London, Edinburgh, and Dublin Philosophical Magazine and Journal of Science 36(222): 430-437. https://doi.org/10.1080/14786449308620499

    Perlin, Marc, Wooyoung Choi, and Zhigang Tian. 2013. “Breaking Waves in Deep and Intermediate Waters.” Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics 45: 115–145. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-fluid-011212-140721

    Pilastro, Eleonora. 2022. “Sebastian Steudtner Surfs Giant Wave and Smashes World Record.” Guiness World Records. May 25, 2022. https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/news/2022/5/sebastian-steudtner-surfs-giant-wave-and-smashes-world-record-705874

    Smith, Craig B. 2006. Extreme Waves. Washington, DC: Joseph Henry Press. https://doi.org/10.17226/11635

    Smith, F. G. Walton. 1973. The Seas in Motion: Waves, Tides, and Currents—How They Work; Their Causes and Effects. New York: Thomas Y. Crowell. https://archive.org/details/seasinmotion00fgwa

    Snodgrass, F. E., K. F. Hasselmann, G. R. Miller, Walter Heinrich Munk, and W. H. Powers. 1966. “Propagation of Ocean Swell across the Pacific.” Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A 259(1103): 431–497. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.1966.0022

    Statista. 2022. Surfing—Statistics and Facts. Statista. https://www.statista.com/topics/9833/surfing/#topicOverview

    Surfer Today. 2023. “Big Wave Surfer Márcio Freire Dies in Nazaré.” Surfer Today. January 6, 2023. https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/big-wave-surfer-marcio-freire-dies-in-nazare

    Surfline. 2023. “The Wedge.” Surfline. Accessed January 31, 2023. https://www.surfline.com/surf-report/the-wedge/5842041f4e65fad6a770882b

    Warshaw, Matt. 2011. The History of Surfing. San Francisco: Chronicle Books. https://www.chroniclebooks.com/products/the-history-of-surfing

    Wendkos, Paul. 1959. Gidget. Columbia Pictures. Film. 95 minutes. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052847/

    Wheeler, Dennis, and Clive Wilkinson. 2004. “From Calm to Storm: The Origins of the Beaufort Wind Scale.” Mariner’s Mirror 90(2): 187–201. https://doi.org/10.1080/00253359.2004.10656896

    13.15: Chapter References (2024)

    References

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